VIntages release December 10, 2011 – Sparkling Sparklers

During the third week of November I conducted three WSET Level 3 Advanced-level classes in sparkling wines and probably enjoyed the classes as least as much as the students.

We tasted several wines made using the different methods for sparkling wine production: traditional, transfer, tank and Asti. The wines included Champagnes from both big houses and small récoltant-manipulants, from New World giants and Old World makers who have traveled to the new World.

With this experience close behind me and with the focus this release on holiday sparklers I thought it worthwhile to share my recommendations on the top buys in this weekend’s release.

There are three sparkling wines in the Holiday Cheer feature I recommend, in order of value:

The first is Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling wine from the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County, California.  I have recommended this wine previously and it continues to stand out for its character and value.  This wine was the overwhelming favourite in my recent classes when tasted blind against two Champagnes both selling at over $40.00 per bottle.  This wine shows a taut character on the nose and palate.  Fresh brioche and lime on the nose is met with green apple, lime and flinty minerals on the palate.  The mousse is delicate, yet assertive, and persistent.  The finish is long and crisp.  $28.95 per bottle.

The second wine is a grower Champagne made by the firm R. Dumont et Fils: Brut Millésimé Champagne 2004.  This vintage wine is a classic with depth of flavor, fullness of body and zesty, elegant mouth feel that punches well above its price.  Like many grower Champagnes this wine appears to be a well-made wine that happens to have crisp and bright sparkling elements added to the mix.  It comes from the Côte des Bar zone of the Champagne region and the fruit comes from the same Kimmeridgean soils that deliver Chablis and Sancerre in Burgundy and the Loire Valley, respectively. Don’t underestimate this wine: it is a special and complex wine at a very attractive price: $54.95 per bottle.

The third wine is another Californian, this time from the Carneros zone of Sonoma Valley. The wine is Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut Sparkling wine, made by a subsidiary of the giant Freixenet Group of Spanish Cava fame.  This is another Old World style sparkler made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. It has tree fruits and citrus on the nose and palate and while not as refined as a fine Champagne it has creamy mousse which shows persistence.  The acid is crisp, the minerals taut and the finish long. For the price this is an excellent wine: $21.95 per bottle.

à bientôt…

Copyright© W. John Switzer 2003 – 2011.


Author: John Switzer

I am wine writer, educator and tour guide. From 2005 to June 2014 I published a bi-weekly newsletter, the Winesights Vintages Newsletter (WVN). This Newsletter was closed in July 2014 when the Government of Canada put in place the onerous administrative requirements of Canada's Anti-Spam Legislation. The legacy of WVN continues on this blog spot where I post wine-related articles as well as reviews of a small selection of best-value wines from each bi-weekly LCBO Vintages release. I hold the WSET Diploma, I am a WSET Certified Educator, I teach in the WSET program at the Independent Wine Education Guild in Toronto where I am the past Director of the WSET Diploma program. Since 2010 I have been a judge at Decanter World Wine Awards on the Rhône panel and I am a member of the Society of Wine Educators.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s